L'hôtel:
My Parisian hotel of choice is the Relais Christine. Situated in the core of Saint-Germain-des-Prés on the left bank, this boutique hotel is filled to the brim with charm, luxury, and history. The hotel used to be the medieval site of the Abbey of the Grands-Augustins but was later greatly augmented in the 16th century by a French princess named Christine. While it is pricey, the location cannot be topped. It is within walking distance of several of Paris' greatest landmarks like Notre-Dame, the Sainte Chapelle, the Cluny museum, and the Luxembourg gardens. The Relais Christine offers a wonderful breakfast, free bicycles for exploring the city, and complimentary wifi (which isn't the case at all European hotels). It's on a quiet side street, which is absolutely essential for a peaceful night's rest. It also has a spa and gym on site if you feel like getting a little extra pampering or are very disciplined with your fitness (I applaud you if you are).
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Les restaurants:
I could get carried away! Paris has outrageously good options that range from wallet-friendly to declaring-bankruptcy-inducing prices. I can be a rather picky eater and find that sometimes the fanciest of restaurants don't offer food that accommodates my pseudo-vegetarian diet. The restaurants listed here are delicious, accessible, not-too-touristy (if at all), and well worth every penny.
Located directly across from the Relais Christine, this bistro is ideal. Serving hands-down the best roasted chicken I have ever had the pleasure of eating, I would gladly eat here once a week for the rest of my life. This is not a budget restaurant but it offers food I would describe as simple--no fancy molecular gastronomy or elaborate garnishes, just good ingredients cooked properly with thoughtfully paired sides.
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Located down the street from the Relais Christine, this is a convenient and delicious option for a meal after extensive touring. Here, they serve classic French dishes like country paté, escargots, and boeuf bourguignon. It is a tiny restaurant but the service is quick and friendly.
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With locations throughout Paris, and indeed throughout the world, Ladurée stuns with their addicting sweets like macarons and éclairs but there's also a full-service restaurant attached to many. I love to come here for lunch. The dining rooms are gorgeous! They have an extensive menu however I've never ordered anything but the chicken breast vol-au-vent with mushrooms and cream sauce (heaven!!). They also have fabulous jasmine iced tea. And do I need to mention the dessert menu?
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This was the first Parisian restaurant I ever ate in that made me fall in love with French cuisine. Tucked away in a side street parallel to the Notre-Dame, this building dates back to the year 1512 when it housed local canons. As I've mentioned, I'm a picky eater. I prefer to eat a vegetarian diet but I do eat some fish and chicken out of necessity so that I get enough protein. That being said, this restaurant offers delicious dishes to easily accommodate my fussiness. For the more adventurous, this place will delight you. I'm told the hot fois gras with cherries is to-die-for as well as the boeuf bourguignon and duck (canard) à l'orange. The service is phenomenal and the setting is charming and history-laden. What more could you ask for?
Le tourisme:
If you're going to Paris for the first time, there are some spots that are practically obligatory to visit. The Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, and Notre-Dame are just a few. But, if you have enough time on your holiday or are lucky enough to return to Paris, here are some sites that are absolutely worth a visit.
The grounds of what used to be a royal palace seem to be an oasis in the middle of busy, traffic-packed Paris. Circling a fountain where you can sail miniature sailboats are a ring of statues. Famous women like saints, royal mistresses, and a few of France's most notable queens are the subjects of these statues. You might not know but I am a graduate student who studies the queens of medieval France so I take great delight in finding a beautifully crafted statue of the subjects of my studies. I can't help it, I'm a nerd. On a sunny day, there is nowhere I'd rather be than lounging on a park bench in this beautiful garden. It's very peaceful, an experience that's not too common in such a large, metropolitan city.
This is without a doubt my number 1 favourite place in all of Paris. Every single time I am in this city, I must revisit the Sainte-Chapelle. Built in the mid-thirteenth century by Saint Louis IX, this private royal chapel is essentially a giant reliquary that used to house the Relics of the Passion. This saintly king purchased the Crown of Thorns and a piece of the True Cross from the Byzantines and constructed this chapel to house these important relics and venerate them. Nowadays, the Relics of the Passion reside within Notre-Dame and you can venerate them on certain days throughout the year. If you're someone who values that sort of thing, it's definitely an experience worth having. The Sainte-Chapelle used to be in the royal palace complex but the majority of it burned down at one point. That site is now mainly government buildings and you have to enter through some imposing gates to get to the chapel. When you enter, you are in the choir, which is now the gift shop. Back in the day, a choir would sing here and their voices would float up to the main event: the upper level. Make your way up a narrow spiral staircase to enter a jewel box of a chapel. Surrounded by the most vivid and sensational stained glass, you are surrounded by light. If you go at certain times throughout the day, the light penetrates the windows and casts coloured light across the floor--it's truly magical and breathtaking. I could get carried away with recounting the history of this site but I realise not everyone shares the same fanaticism for medieval history as I do. If you want to know more, I'd be happy to oblige!
Considered by many to be the first gothic cathedral, St Denis is a beautiful space that is now, unfortunately, in a rough part of town. Saint Denis is France's patron saint: martyred at Montmartre, legend has it that the decapitated bishop carried his head all the way to the spot where the basilica now stands, indicating where he wanted to be entombed. This basilica has a looong history and has served as the French royal mausoleum throughout the many centuries of French monarchy. This is kinda my jam so, again, I could get carried away. But, I shall refrain from boring you with the technical stuff about medieval burial culture and just say that it is a beautiful space with lovely ribbed vaulting and stained glass. I recommend taking the metro to get here: ask your concierge to give you direction here. As it is on the outskirts of Paris, a taxi would be prohibitively expensive. Although it is in a rough neighbourhood, I don't imagine you'd have any trouble or worry if you went in the morning.
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Having a wander:
Honestly, this is now my favourite thing to do when I travel to Paris. Don't get me wrong, shopping and museum-going is world-class. But, once you've seen the main sights often enough, there's nothing better than just putting on a comfortable pair of shoes and hitting the streets. I can wander aimlessly for hours just taking in the architecture, gardens, and sounds. It's extra nice if you've got a nice companion to explore and chit-chat with. If you come across a nice spot to sit and rest your feet, go for it! Stop along the way at a sidewalk cafe and "prendre un café." Paris is a lot more than just the main tourist spots. Some of the best times I've had in this city are when I have no plan, agenda, or reservations and can simply meander through the arrondissements.
The options in Paris are endless. I look forward to returning to this city and trying other hotels, experimenting in new restaurants, discovering different museums, and finding unique shops. What are your favourite spots in Paris?
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